Darts & Dart Boards

A good dartboard isn’t just a circle of sisal. It’s a tuned surface with carefully engineered wiring and fiber density that affects bounce-outs, grouping space, noise, and longevity. Good boards “heal” quickly when you pull darts; poor ones crater and glaze. For soft-tip and electronic boards, segment quality, sensor reliability, and scoring software directly shape the fun (and the fairness).

If you’re outfitting a bar or pub, durability and noise levels matter alongside price and easy rotation. At home, you may prioritize bounce-out reduction and quiet play in shared spaces. Tournament play demands top visibility, ultra-thin spiders, and pro-grade sisal that holds flights tight through heavy use.

Bar and pub buyers: what to prioritize

Durability per dollar: You need dense, high-quality sisal (or sturdy soft-tip segments), since casual throwers hit wires and outside segments more often.
Bounce-out reduction: Ultra-thin, angled wiring and staple-free bulls keep darts in the board. That means fewer lost points and happier patrons.
Noise & neighbors: In bars with tight spaces or apartments above, quieter boards (denser sisal, solid backings, or soft-tip electronic) reduce complaints.
Maintainability: Ensure a removable number ring for rotation, plus easy wall-mount hardware. Many boards ship with a bracket system—get a few spares so staff can swap boards swiftly.
Visibility & aesthetics: Clean, high-contrast printing helps everyone see doubles/trebles in dim pub light.
Scoring logistics: Electronic boards with built-in scoring (Arachnid) cut down on disputes; bristle setups pair well with tablet scoring apps at the bar rail.

Tournament and leagues: details decide matches

Standard board height & distance: 5' 8" bull height, 7' 9.25" steel-tip oche; measure from the face of the board, not the wall. Use a measuring tape and mark the toe line clearly.

Floor mat and oche: A padded mat defines the line and softens errant falls. Fixed “ockey” blocks remove ambiguity and keep toes honest.
Lighting: Even, shadow-free lighting (think halo lights) helps aim and improves streaming/photography.
Rotation schedule: Every league night or after heavy practice, rotate the number ring to distribute wear on high-traffic segments (20, 19, 18, etc.).
Spare board on deck: For events, keep a backup board broken in but not battered, ready for a mid-tournament swap if needed.

Home practice: how to improve fast

Set the line once, measure twice. Use blue painter’s tape for your first week to fine-tune foot feel, then upgrade to a proper oche.

Warm-up routine (10 minutes):

2 minutes: easy grouping at 20s to find rhythm
3 minutes: doubles ring walk (D1 → D20; any miss, return to last hit double)
3 minutes: trebles ladder (T10–T20; focus on smooth release)
2 minutes: bull cadence (single bull to set aim, big breath, release)

Focused practice games:

Bob’s 27: Start at 27 points, shoot at doubles sequentially; add 2×double hit, subtract miss.
Round the Clock on trebles: Target T10–T20; force clean mechanics.
Cricket pressure: Play solo cricket aiming to close in fewest darts; record bests.

Tracking: Keep a notebook or app with your three-dart average (TDA), doubles percentage, and single-visit highlights. Improvement sneaks up—data proves it.

Darts: barrels, weights, and tips that match your board

Steel-tip darts (for bristle): Common weights 21–26 g. Heavier isn’t always better; pick the lightest that feels stable.
Soft-tip darts (for electronic): Usually 16–20 g with 2BA plastic tips. On many soft-tip boards, you can still use heavier barrels with conversion kits—check manufacturer guidance.
Barrel shapes:
- Straight/parallel for push-throws and flexible grip positions
- Torpedo for front-grippers wanting a quick, compact release
Grip: Knurling and micro-grooves add traction; too much grip can “stick” in the fingers and yank the dart off line.
Flights & shafts: Standard flights stabilize looping arcs; slim flights suit flatter trajectories. Align shaft length with your release—shorter for front-weighted flicks, longer for smoother, higher arcs.

Mounting, measuring, and making it last

Mounting height: 5' 8" from floor to center bull. If in a wheelchair league, a common accessible spec lowers the bull to 4' 6" while keeping throw distance; check local rules before events.

Throwing distance: 7' 9.25" (steel-tip), 8' (soft-tip), measured from the face of the board. A string dropped from the face to the floor marks your true zero.

Surrounds and backers: A foam or rubber surround protects walls and dampens sound; cork or felt backers reduce vibration. For apartments, add a sheet of high-density foam behind the mount.

Care and rotation:

Rotate the number ring frequently.
Avoid liquid cleaners; brush lightly with a soft brush to lift fibers.
Don’t leave darts in the board between sessions—they deform the sisal.
If a segment glazes (looks shiny), rotate and rest that zone.

What to buy for serious practice at home

Keep quality steel-tip darts in 22–24 g and a second set ±2 g to explore feel changes.
Add a halo light, a mat with oche, and a small tripod for slow-motion release videos.

For bars and pubs

Stock spare tips (soft-tip), chalk/markers (if using chalkboards), and a printed rules sheet.

For tournaments and leagues

Maintain a replacement log; swap boards before they “look” worn in streaming zones.
Use identical lighting on every lane to keep player feedback consistent.

Common mistakes (and how to avoid them)

Measuring from the wall, not the face. That adds the board’s thickness and throws off your line—measure from the face only.
Neglecting rotation. Even a great board dies young if the 20-bed never gets a break.
Over-grippy darts. They stick to your fingers and cause late releases; try milder knurl.
Ignoring bounce-outs. If you’re bouncing a lot, check: dull points, worn spider paint (no issue), wiring thickness, and angle of entry. Premium boards with ultra-thin wiring help.
Mixing steel-tip darts on electronic boards without proper conversion points—follow manufacturer guidance.